Crazy about New York's Chinatown

Next time you are walking on almost any Manhattan sidewalk – STOP!

NOT in the middle of the street. No need to advertise your tourist status.

Steer yourself away from the busy artery of pedestrians to the side of a building and stop.

Now listen.

Within several minutes you will hear snatches of multilingual conversations, and realize why New York is called a melting pot.

If you desire that melting pot to come with soba noodles, dim sum, roast pork buns or Malaysian beef jerky – get yourself to Chinatown.

Down where the island of Manhattan starts to narrow, tucked between the neighborhoods of the East Village, SoHo, Tribeca and the City Hall area, many Asian cultures have joined the once supreme Chinese domain making the area richer for the influx.

Unlike wider sidewalks both further downtown and uptown, Chinatown’s streets are narrower and winding. Learning how to go with the flow is important.

Adopting the “bob and weave” technique could avert trouble later, especially if you are tall. Overhead racks loaded with silk scarves, T shirts and baseball hats spill from the indoor/outdoor store fronts while lower stand items like grinning corpulent Buddhas, plastic toys, imitation perfumes, watches, and hand-bags gleam invitingly from below.

One never knows when a buyer will be enticed by the sing-song bidding of a store’s owner and suddenly halt.

Traversing the fish mongers, fruit and vegetable stands can prove even trickier. A stray scrap of monkfish or squashed bean pod might require a sudden pivot. Just when you think you have the rhythm a small bent grandmother, with a huge wheeled shopping basket, could make a sharp turn to obtain the perfect lo bok (radish) or foo gwa (bitter melon). Remember bob and weave, bob and weave.

Chinatown’s quickened pulse is similar too much of Manhattan with the added aura of the exotic. Here freshly butchered whole pigs are hoisted over delivery men’s backs from a double parked truck, Peking duck slowly roasts to a burnished golden red in restaurant windows and entry into one of shops is usually met with a blast of Asian songs from the CD player.

Confused? Remain calm – there is a sense of reason among the chaos.

Canal Street runs from the east side to the west side and is one of the main thoroughfares. Here you will find jewelry stores and some of the biggest bargains in the neighborhood.

Walking to the corner of Mott and Canal you have hit the apex of Chinatown. Half a block north on Mott lays one of the best dim sum palaces the Grand Harmony. Do not worry if your chopstick skills are lacking, forks are handy, and when giving a tip do as the locals. Balance the money (make it bills – not coins) over the top of the teapot and secure it with the lid.

Take Mott Street to Grand Street for some of the best fresh food markets

Between Canal and Bayard on Baxter Street a small number of Vietnamese stores and restaurants, like Thai So’n andNew Pasteur, reside.

Doyers Street features a unique 90 degree turn. Guides will often tell it was built to confuse any wicked ghosts in the area.

Chatham Square honors Chinese-Americans killed in WWII with the Kim Lau Memorial Arch.

For the history of this cultural infusion a stop at the Museum of the Chinese in the Americas is a must! Located on the second floor on a former elementary school at the corner of Mulberry and Bayard Streets, the museum is a boon to budget travelers with its nominal fee, and open from noon to 6pm Tuesdays through Sundays.

With all the walking and sightseeing a sweet reward is in order. Bakeries such as Dragon Land on Walker Street or Fa Day on Mott Street provide delicacies like Dan Tot (egg custards encased in a light flaky crust) or Hong Dau Sa Bao (bread filled with smooth red bean paste). Another all time favorite is the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory. Imagine lychee, green tea or almond cookie wrapped in creamy smoothness. Western flavors are also available.

If you missed February’s Chinese New Year’s parade the good news is the celebration of the year of the pig continues through March 18th with the Red Lantern Market Month promotion. Dozens of Chinatown merchants and restaurants are offering discounts or prize with purchase in exchange for a coupon. Collect the free coupon book, and maps for self guided walking tours, at the Chinatown Tourism Kiosk at the corner of Canal and Baxter Streets.

Professional guide services, like Joyce Gold, can provide more insightful touring.

Give into the adventure and explore! You will harbor the memories forever.

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